The temples visited in Taiwan were some of the most
incredible structures I have ever seen. My first encounter with these lavishly
decorated religious structures was on the first day of my arrival in the country. The
curator of the 2014 Taiwan Ceramic Biennale, Wendy Gers and I visited the
temple, in walking distance from our hotel.
The Qingshui Zushi temple is situated in the Sanxia district, on the
southwest side of the Taipei region. The temple is nestled in between a diverse
range of residential structures and on the edge of another famous landmark, the
Sanxia Old Street (image on the left).
The temple, built in 1769 to honour the famous general Qingshui
Zushi, captures your attention from the moment you spot the richly decorated
and brightly coloured sculptured figurines and creatures that adorn the rooves of
this lavishly carved and constructed religious structure. It is in sharp
contrast to the classical red brick built commercial structures of the Sanxia
Old Street.
Built entirely out of red
bricks, residents and tourists shop here for all sorts of handcrafted
commercial goods, including tea, soaps, ceramics and the famous indigo-dyed
fabric. However the bright colours of the Temple's roof tiles and richly adorned and
carved surfaces of the pillars and supporting structures and furniture is an overwhelming visual experience.
The sheer scale of the structure and attention to
detail, applied in a number of layers throughout the structure, compels you to
zoom in and out, turning about as you try to absorb the complex spectacle of
this landmark.
How does one begin to conceptualise and
visualise and ultimately assemble all the masterly crafted and excessively
decorated components into a single unified built structure, a place for reflection
and meditation? The exterior and interior, the ceiling and the
walls, as well as the religious figures are all richly adorned, creating a elaborately
opulent gaudy space, which local residents frequently visit to ensure the favour
of the gods and a fruitful life. Wars and natural disasters wreaked serious
damage to this structure that had to be rebuilt three times.
The second temple visited was Dalongdong Baoan, also known
as the Taipei Baoan Temple. We visited the temple and the National Palace
Museum during an excursion to Taipei, organised by the Museum for all the
conference delegates. The religious structure was erected to worship the
Emperor Baosheng Wu.
A God of medicine, he is believed to have performed
numerous miracles. Considered the more famous of the two temples, it is a Class
II heritage sight. As a matter of fact, the Taipei Baoan Temple, alongside the
Longshan and Chinh-shui Master temples, are classified the most significant
religious structures in Taiwan.
However, one’s first encounter of cultural
products, albeit a religious structure, is always the more special and
memorable. On close examination,
observing the carvings and figurines up closely, it becomes clear why the
temple is so highly regarded and one of the most visited temples in the
country.
Spectacular in ever sense of the word, totally overwhelming,
the bright and intense use of colour, adds to the majestic experience. The
fresh flowers and bonsai trees in and around the temple, add to the already
opulent and richly decorated and carved structure. The use of warm lights, and
intense coulour and gilded carvings of figurines inside the structure, transports
the worshipper on his transient spiritual journey – a visually spectacular and
enticing encounter, like no other.
